Brad Spurgeon's Blog

A world of music, auto racing, travel, literature, chess, wining, dining and other crazy thoughts….

Paris Double-Header: Tennessee Bar and The Galway Pub

June 15, 2010
bradspurgeon

Monday nights used to be all about Earle’s open mic for me, as far as I was concerned. I knew Monday was a good night for other open mics, but as long as Earle’s existed, that’s where I would be. If Earle’s open mic was closed for holidays or vacation, I would then go to the other available places. Earle’s open mic is now finished officially – although who knows if that’s forever – after a half decade running from one spot to another.

That meant that last night I finally decided to get out to another Monday night venue – after a few weeks without anything. It turns out that two of the best are both located near each other in the Latin Quarter, one at the Tennessee Bar near the Odéon, and the other at the Galway Pub, on the quai near the Place St. Michel.

The Tennessee is located behind the Rue St. André des Arts, in a small street called rue André Mazet. Upstairs it is rather hip looking, a small bar on two levels. Downstairs is cave-like, and it even has caveman drawings in a part of it. Brick walls, a nice little comfortable stage with an upright piano. The open mic is run by James Iansiti, an American from California but of Italian origin, who often wears a fedora to cover his bleached yellow Mohawk haircut.

I was among the first to arrive yesterday, so I was among the first to perform. It is a classic open mic with James calling up the performers more or less in the order of their arrival – although he does not keep a list. It is very informal, and it is about half and half expat performers to French performers. I did four songs last night, and I felt very emotional and was able to feel not the slightest bit of nervousness because I was so angry at the world. I don’t know if that came through in the playing, and I never stuck around long enough to find out what anyone thought of my songs. I split and went to the Galway to continue my personal therapy and sing some more.

But I did see a few interesting other acts at the Tennessee, including a couple of French guys who did a fabulous rendition of “While My Gutar Gently Weeps,” and also a guy from the United States somewhere who played some classic blues stuff with his electric guitar and he sang.

I went to the Galway and got there early, far too early, in fact. There was a World Cup soccer game on the television. The open mic normally starts at 21:30, but we had to wait until the game ended. That took nearly half an hour, and then the open mic started immediately afterwards – and once most of the people cleared out of the pub after the game!

The open mic is MC’d by a man named Steven, or Stephen, from Melbourne, Australia. He looks a little like Kurt Cobain and wears an Australian bush hat of some kind. You can see that in the video I did of him introducing the evening and starting off with a song…. that song just surprised me so much as it was the last thing I expected to hear from an Australian who looks like Kurt Cobain. He and his French fiddler, Pierre, played “Rocky Road to Dublin.”

It fired me up so much that I decided I would play the “Raggle Taggle Gypsies” when I went up, which was right after Steven. I played three more songs after that, “Just Like A Woman,” my own “Since You Left Me,” and finally “Year of the Cat.”

Among the other performers I enjoyed were a young Dutch woman who had a nice voice and some charisma, and a Frenchman named Etienne. I had seen Etienne somewhere else, but I could not remember pricisely where. I thought it was at the Highlander, but my recollection of him was that he was bluff, full of himself and not talented. When this Etienne began to sing, however, I realized I was mistaking him for someone else. This guy has a very cool voice and presence and an emotional thing that gets through – hmm, more Kurt Cobain than Steven, after all….

Jamming At Home With Myself

June 14, 2010
bradspurgeon

SE Electronics Z5600a mic

My SE Electronics Z5600a mic

Just continuing on, decided to do a fresh series of recordings in my living room of a bunch of songs – five of my own and two cover songs – that I might record in July. I used my fancy wonderful SE Electronics Z5600a II microphone but I think I made a mess of the levels and that I was too close to the mic so when my voice is loud it’s a bit distorted. The thing I tried to do was to record the voice and the guitar at the same time, and that’s difficult with one mic. But mostly I just wanted to do these tracks to stamp down where the songs stand today – with just voice and guitar. They were all done in a single take – except Memories, since I left out a verse the first time I sang it – and all done this morning and this afternoon.

Theys all down here:

Brad singing Van Morrison’s Crazy Love

Brad singing his song Since You Left Me

Brad singing his song Except Her Heart

Brad singing his song Memories

Brad singing Al Stewart’s song Year of the Cat

Brad singing his song Let Me Know

Brad singing his song Lara, Lara

Trying To Learn A New Song – Andalucia, by Gary Jules

June 13, 2010
bradspurgeon

Just tried to do a new song today, which, in fact, I have been trying to learn for quite a while. I am not sure it really does work with my voice, but I like the song and feel it SHOULD work. Putting it up because nothing else happening.

The original Andalucia by Gary Jules is, of course, much better. But I was very indebted and thrilled when Jules responded to a message I send him on his Myspace asking for the chords. He sent me the chords and lyrics. I still haven’t found my way with it, but hopefully I will.

But my version of Andalucia is starting to take shape – especially the second half: me singing Andalucia today.

All Roads Meet at the Point Ephémère

June 9, 2010
bradspurgeon

Went to the arts space called Point Ephémère yesterday and had a drink of sparkling water with Vanessa on the terrace overlooking the less than sparkling water of the canal in the 10th Arrondissement in Paris. Went and listened to a psychobilly guy playing guitar and a couple of drum pieces operated with his feet, along with some art films running at the same time. While standing there, noticed a former colleague, Ivan, from the International Herald Tribune who is now in a band called Control Club, which is managed by Earle’s company BPM.

Point Ephémère

Point Ephémère in Paris.


I had been planning on perhaps working with one of the band members in Control Club to do some recordings of my songs along with a guitarist, drummer and bass player, and I had been intending to call him up. But it turned out that the studio itself is in the Point Ephemere building and so I went and spoke to the guy. This is Hervé Bouétard, and I learned yesterday that not only did he play in Control Club now but in the past he was better known as a member of the French band called AS Dragon.

That drew together a few other worlds, as it turned out that AS Dragon was formed by Bertrand Burgalat, a French producer, to act as a backing band for Michel Houellebecq, the French writer. I had met Burgalat a few months ago when I went to attend and say hello to April March, who was the former girlfriend of a friend of mine, John Kricfalusi. Burgalat’s company, Tricatel, produces April March’s records. And I was introduced that night to Burgalat by Etienne Shades, who noticed me in the audience, and whom I had met while singing at Earle’s open mics. I had written a story once in which I spoke about Houellebecq as an exiled French writer, in a story about exiled writers.

Anyway, this is all going on and on, this item. But the point is, the meeting seemed very promising and with so many different paths leading to this same spot, I thought I really should pursue this idea of recording with Herve in his studio. It might happen in July.

A Lucky Night Au Ptit Bonheur La Chance

June 2, 2010
bradspurgeon

On a day when I was feeling anything but lucky, I suddenly recalled that it being a Tuesday, I could go to one of my favorite open mics in Paris. I don’t know where to start in talking about Ollie’s open mic at the bar near the Panthéon in Paris called Au Ptit Bonjeur La Chance.

What was lucky about it last night was that I was not ready to go out very early, and this open mic starts at 9:30 PM and Ollie is very equitable and agreeable in the way he gets people up to play in good time. But the other thing that made it lucky last night was a sudden feeling of several different connections to this bar on Rue Laplace, which is also near one of my favorites streets in Paris, the Rue Mouffetard.

Ollie Fury has been running the open mic for several months, and it’s always nice to have a good guy like him running and open mic, and it was particularly cool that we met each other long before he started the open mic as performing musicians both of us. In other words, I met Ollie playing at other open mics as a musician himself, and we bumped into each other many times before he opened his own evening. (He starts each evening by playing himself, and he has a very cool voice, doing some amazing interpretations of classic folk rock and others, and many of his own compositions.)

But my introduction to this cool bar was not through Ollie, but rather it happened to be the first bar at which I played my own musical gig – as opposed to open mic. It was in December 2008, near Christmas, and Earle Holmes set up for me a set at the same bar, when it was called the Rhubarbe. This was only two months after I had returned to playing music in public, and I must say that my set was pretty bad. I didn’t know what to expect, or what to do – except sing and play, but I did it while reading the lyrics in a book and on papers in front of me, and with a little lamp over the words so I could see them. Needless to say, I was somewhat upstaged by the Mister Soap and the Smiling Tomatoes, who played after me – and for whom, in any case, I was only really acting as a warm-up act.

I knew this before. But last night I discovered something else that ties me to this little bar: I learned that the man who has for several months – the time I’ve been attending the open mics – been very kind and convivial with me behind the bar went to high school (lycée) and was very good friends with the son of one of my Formula One reporter colleagues. The reporter is one of the regular F1 reporters for a French radio station, and as if to add to the coincidence, it turns out that he is a guy who has followed my musical adventures on the F1 road for a while and has been trying to link up to see me perform at a race. But my F1 music playing patterns are very difficult to follow, and so we have not yet been able to jibe on that. (He was supposed to go to the Hard Rock Café night in Malaysia, but I called him up to say not to come.)

Anyway, the Ptit Bonheur de la Chance open mic is a beauty for many reasons, and the above mentioned owner and bartender, whose name is Pierre Gonnet, has done a great job renovating it. The bar is fabulous because upstairs you can get away from the music and talk if you want, while in the open mic area proper, in the basement, people listen. It is very cosy, with a very low ceiling and circular tables and stools spotted all around the room. The sound system could be improved on, however, as the mic and amps kill the voice – sounds like the mic is covered with tissue paper or something – and, yes, the amps are as basic as you can get.

But Ollie does such a great, low-key, friendly and cool job of giving people a spot to play, and the crowd is almost always a nice one, there for the music and nothing else. And I don’t know how it happens, probably it’s Ollie’s efforts to promote the evening, but it has almost every week at least one standout performer, and often several. I particularly liked both the first and the last performers last night, both Americans. I’ll put up the videos I did – but I must apologize first, since the videos are almost entirely black. But the sound is great on this Zoom Q3. So that’s what it’s there for. And both of these performers were authentic. Check them out. (Oh, me? I told the story of how in Istanbul you can be asked to play everywhere on the streets, in the bars, etc., with just the sight of the guitar on your back – but then I played in that apartment and was stopped by a neighbor after one song, as in my previous post. So I said I was there at Ollie’s to finish “Just Like A Woman,” which I did. I then sang “Mad World,” and without Vanessa with me on that one I was totally lost. And then I did my song, “Since You Left Me,” and I left out a verse, but I also felt like I had repeated another verse. Ah well, that’s live performance for you.)

Cold Turkey Music Lesson

June 1, 2010
bradspurgeon

Can this really be classified as a lesson? Or was it a freak occurance? In any case, what happened on my last night in Istanbul seemed to go counter to every other musical lesson I learned in that magnificent city, so there might be a lesson there somewhere.

As I think I made clear in the previous entries in this blog about my musical adventures in Istanbul, the city is certainly the most music friendly city I have found in the world. As you walk through the streets with a guitar on your back you are importuned everywhere to take it off, enter a restaurant, bar, sidewalk cafe or wherever, and play music. I learned last year that most of the musicians who play in the bars throughout Istanbul – and it seems that nearly every bar has live music – are from a slightly different caste of people. There is something gypsy-like about them and the way they are regarded.

So is it in that fact that my lesson the last day may be learned? After the race I returned to Istanbul and with a friend and a couple of his associates had a drink on the terrace of a hotel overlooking the Bosporus. This friend likes my music and knows that I am on this musical quest around the world with the races, and he knew that I had not found or set up a venue for Istanbul on Sunday night. He decided to set up this meeting with his associates for fun and so that after the drink we could return to his associate’s nearby apartment and I could play a few songs for everyone.

It turned out that the apartment was a large penthouse with a terrace encircling the full floor – or at least most of it, from what I could see – and it too had a view of the Bosporus. In short, a beautiful apartment above Istanbul in a relatively luxurious building with a view. It was a kind of venue I had not played, and obviously it fit in wonderfully when you think that I’d played in a prison and in the streets, and last year in several different bars. Playing in a private home was one more link in the chain covering the gamut of possibilities in Istanbul.

So after hours of drink and talk at the hotel we arrived at the apartment and our host opened a bottle of Veuve Cliquot champagne, served us glasses and I was very quickly importuned to play – it was already close to midnight.

So I prepared my guitar, the three others sat on the couch and in an armchair, and I stood in front of them and decided to sing “Crazy Love” to start with, simply because I find it a good one to warm up my voice and my emotions and my guitar playing. I started tapping my foot and realized that I was tapping on a wooden floor – a thick, hard wooden floor – and I moved over a couple of steps to a thick carpet in order that the tapping not resound too loudly for my audience.

I finished “Crazy Love” and launched into “Just Like a Woman.” I got through a verse of that and I heard the doorbell to the apartment ringing. I kept singing, but I had a bad vibe telling me something was going to happen. The host returned and shrugged and said, “Sorry, we’re bothering my neighbor downstairs. We have to stop.”

That was it. One song and one verse and the woman who lived below had decided that the foot tapping was too strong and not to be had – at least that was the excuse I heard. But when you consider that the floors between the apartment were thick, and that this was a well-built, fairly luxurious building and that we were not yet past midnight and had done only one song by the time she set out up the stairs – it is all very surprising for any city, and even more surprising for Istanbul, where I people love musicians more than in any other place I have been.

The lesson? Was this neighbor a freak? Or was it to do with the lowness of having a gypsy like me playing and singing in a respectable Istanbul apartment rather than in the street or a bar or a restaurant? I don’t know if I will ever learn. But it was a situation that proved the cliché that Istanbul is a city of contrasts.

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